Customers experiencing damp clothes coming out of the dryer or long time drying with no results or no apparent heat being produced by the dryer need to verify a few things before considering it might be product failure.
No heat from a dryer is usually determined by putting the palm of one’s hand anywhere on the outside panels of the cabinet, whether top or sides, other than the control panel, and not feeling warmth at all after appliance had been running 30 minutes or more.
This would imply clothing had been tumbling and not drying at all coming out practically as wet as it did going in.
The quicker alternative would be to start the dryer with absolutely no load inside and run it on Air cycle for approximately one (1) minute then opening the door, extending the arm inside and feeling whether there is heat or not.
At this point, it would be easy to suspect a failure or defect in the heating element assembly should there be no heat felt.
Before seeking assistance in the form of getting a certified technician dispatched for in-home service call, there are a few things you should try.
Is the drying cycle set to “Cotton/Normal”? If yes, is there an “Energy Saver” option on the control panel? If yes, press that button to deactivate the feature. “Energy Saver” option on a dryer is a government legislated requirement to accredit the appliance with the Energy Star label.
Energy Saver option is selected by default for normal cycle from the factory.
To reduce energy consumption, the Energy Saver option is activated. The cycle begins with air dry until middle of the cycle after which dryer resumes drying at low heat.
Therefore, you may feel there is no heat when the door is opened around mid-cycle. You may also feel the cold dampness inside or clothing not dry enough upon completion of cycle. Also, the drying time may be longer if the energy saver option is being used.
Is this a brand new installation? Meaning… has there ever been another dryer hooked up to that same 240 volts AC outlet that did operate in the past?
If no, you may want to consult with the house contractor to confirm whether or not they did get the electrician to enable the 240 volt current from that AC outlet. Sometimes they do so on purpose to avoid potential fatal consequences from children playing with the outlet.
Since a dryer relies on 240 volt power for the heating element assembly, all other electrical components operate at 120 volts from the same AC outlet. So, don’t think that because the dryer powers “on” that the 240 volt portion of the receptacle is live.
If the outlet was working before and there’s no reason to believe it went faulty then we need to check the fuse box or circuit breakers. So if the dryer powers “on”, you need to check the 30 amps fuse or circuit breaker whether blown or tripped. Please acknowledge that over time these devices suffer wear & tear and weaken so if they happen to trip regularly it is a sign they need to be replaced.
Next, we normally ask the customer to perform a quick test consisting of :
Now, if we’ve determined there is heat yet the clothes are not drying then we have to look at the exhaust venting duct. If the duct is clogged, heat cannot escape. Heat building up inside a dryer drum can be hazardous and cause a fire so, through means of sensors the dryer will automatically shut down. It may restart, shut-down, restart, shut-down so on and so forth but one thing is certain… at the end of the cycle the load has not dried.
If everything listed here failed at producing any positive results, please call our Customer Service at 1.888.542.2623 for assistance. Even if your dryer is out of warranty, do inquiry about our One Price Flat Rate Repair Program.
If none of the above has been successful in resolving your issue, you may want to consult the FLOW SENSE WARNING on-line article for further troubleshooting.
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